Kayak

Phase Two I stripped the skin off and marked the gunwales to cut them in half. I kept the top half with the mortises for the deck beams and cut open mortises or rebates into the bottom for the ribs. I cut on the mark I'd made on the ribs and recarved the tenons to 3/8" on the newly cut ends. And tied the frame back together. It's about three inches shallower.
A major revision was made in the new chines. They are now about an inch wide where they had been about 3/8" and the qajaq is no longer round-bottom but hard chined. In a hard abeam sea that is just starting to show whitecaps the boat rocks a bit to keep normal to the surface but I'll have to get used to that, and while the weather's been to cool to brace and "put my ear in the water" to get a sense of stability, there's no denying that hardening the chines has made this a boat that's closer to my skill level.
It's still closer to being a boat for competition than a recreational craft. I have a set of 14 foot gunwales set up. I'll go 20+ inches on the beam, get a little more toe room under the front deck, so I can wiggle around and fight off stiffening up, and probably have to settle for a greater distance of waterline to shear than my present dimension of about an inch
The frames in modern Greenlandic kayaks is quite a bit lighter than we in America seem to build. A keelson and 2 chines, ribs spaced about twice as far as I feel comfortable with. Both decks are flat: I need a peaked foredeck for my feet. This is a kayak in Sisimiut. On a visit to Greenland in November we saw quite a few handmade and few factory made kayaks.