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Greenlanders can't imagine a land more beautiful than Greenland. They may be right about that. While travelling with Greenlanders we discovered that, like ourselves, they often stop to look at the scenery. Most villages in Greenland have a well-worn path or even sets of steps that lead to a vantage point with the best views On our trip in November we experienced and observed some new aspects of Greenland. We are "packaging" some easy ways to get to Greenland, including flights from the US. We've often sent travelers as side trips from Iceland and now we have more variety in travel to, and tours within, Greenland. (One of us [BV] got real interested in the Inuit culture and artifacts found there and built (and rebuilt) several Greenlandic kayaks - but that is another story.) Here are some photos and words on that story. East Greenland. It's easy to reach from Iceland, it offers a glimpse of a culture far removed from the modern "busyness" world and it means experiencing landscapes very few people have seen and experienced. The West Coast has relics of the Viking settlements from 1,000 years ago, access to the ice cap and icebergs of sizes and volumes that warrant inclusion as a UN Heritage Site. |
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The East coast of Greenland is called "Tunu" It's a Greenlandic word that means the "back "of the country. The center of this area is Ammassalik, (or as it is lately being known, Tasiilaq). Because of its geographical location this area is, and always has been, relatively isolated in from the rest of Greenland (and, as one might guess, from the rest of the world). This has left its mark in the East Greenland dialect and an old culture that has felt little influence by outside forces. In fact it is only a little more than 100 years since the first Europeans "discovered" this area. In East Greenland the old traditions are still very much alive. During the winter (which starts in October) hunting trips with dog sledges (several weeks in duration) are still common. Many families choose to live at isolated spots, to improve their hunting of seals and polar bears, and pick home sites close to good fishing. Once summer comes, and the ice breaks up, the families are fetched by ship and visit town to sell the winter bounty and buy new supplies of cartridges, coffee and other necessities. In addition to its grandiose nature, the east coast is particularly known for its exceptional and beautiful production of handicraft which, like the drum dance, is rooted in traditional culture. Although sled dogs in Greenland are restricted to latitudes above the Arctic Circle, the exception is the Eastern village of Kulusuk which has a large abundance of the animals because of its climate and the short summer. The West coast of Greenland has much variety in both landscapes.and activities. In the southern part are the remains of the Viking settlements. The discoveries and excavations of these sites caused historians and archeologists, in part, to re-evaluate their attitudes towards the medieval Sagas as history, as not just a set of rambling stories but pretty good history. The land has areas of sharp and precititous mountains and also deep fjords with broad grassy slopes. Trails to the ice cap winding through some very distinctive landscpes. Icebergs and the occasional whale found in in the area's fjords and bays. Greenland areas, East and South (via Iceland) East Kulusuk and Amassalik (Tasiliik). Below the Circle. Never ice-free and because of that the only area that allows dogs (many, many) below the Arctic Circle. A one or two day trip from Iceland is easy to accomplish South Greenland - The Grand Tour is the best choice for exploring all the aspects of this area, rich in history, geology and nature. Time enough to do some real exploring and discovery. Narsarsuaq A somewhat shorter time (4 or 5 days) in Greenland's south. Combined travel - Iceland and Greenland Combined - Iceland (4 Days) & East Greenland (4 Days) Visits to Iceland's most popular natural wonders cobined with a stay in a primordial area of Greenland. Combined - Iceland (4 Days) & South Greenland (4 Days) Viking relics,whales,Inuit life and history combine with glaciers and icebergs and access to the ice cap. Greenland, November '06 trip photos Download a
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